Drywall (also called gypsum board, wallboard, or Sheetrock™) is the standard interior wall and ceiling finish material in residential and commercial construction. Standard drywall sheets come in 4-foot width with lengths of 8, 9, 10, and 12 feet. The most common size is 4×8 feet with ½-inch thickness for walls and ⅝-inch for ceilings. Understanding sheet dimensions, thickness options, and specialty types ensures proper material selection and quantity estimation for your project.
| Size | Dimensions | Square Footage | Weight (1/2") | Weight (5/8") | Best Use |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 4×8 | 48" × 96" (1.22 × 2.44 m) |
32 sq ft | 57 lbs (26 kg) | 74 lbs (34 kg) | Most common, walls 8 ft or less, residential standard |
| 4×9 | 48" × 108" (1.22 × 2.74 m) |
36 sq ft | 64 lbs (29 kg) | 83 lbs (38 kg) | 9-foot walls, reduces seams, commercial buildings |
| 4×10 | 48" × 120" (1.22 × 3.05 m) |
40 sq ft | 71 lbs (32 kg) | 92 lbs (42 kg) | 10-foot walls, fewer seams, commercial |
| 4×12 | 48" × 144" (1.22 × 3.66 m) |
48 sq ft | 86 lbs (39 kg) | 110 lbs (50 kg) | 12-foot walls/ceilings, fewest seams, minimal taping |
| 4×14 | 48" × 168" (1.22 × 4.27 m) |
56 sq ft | 100 lbs (45 kg) | 128 lbs (58 kg) | Tall walls, commercial buildings, special order |
| 4×16 | 48" × 192" (1.22 × 4.88 m) |
64 sq ft | 114 lbs (52 kg) | 147 lbs (67 kg) | Very tall walls, commercial, special order, difficult handling |
| 2×2 | 24" × 24" (610 × 610 mm) |
4 sq ft | 7 lbs (3 kg) | 9 lbs (4 kg) | Repairs, small patches, ceiling tiles |
| Thickness | Weight per SF (4×8 sheet) | Applications | Advantages | Disadvantages |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1/4" (6.35mm) | 1.2 lbs/SF (38 lbs per 4×8) |
Curved walls, arches, double-layer applications, repair patches | Flexible (bends for curves), lightweight, economical for patches | Not structural, requires backing, minimal sound insulation |
| 3/8" (9.5mm) | 1.5 lbs/SF (48 lbs per 4×8) |
Covering old plaster, double-layer walls, repair over damaged drywall | Thicker than 1/4", better than tearing out old walls, moderate cost | Uncommon (hard to find), not ideal for new construction |
| 1/2" (12.7mm) (Most Common) |
1.6-1.8 lbs/SF (54-57 lbs per 4×8) |
Interior walls, standard residential construction, most common thickness | Industry standard, widely available, good strength-to-weight ratio, economical | Not ideal for ceilings (may sag), moderate sound insulation |
| 5/8" (15.9mm) | 2.0-2.3 lbs/SF (70-74 lbs per 4×8) |
Ceilings (16" OC joists), commercial buildings, fire-rated walls, sound insulation | Sag-resistant (ceilings), better sound insulation, fire-rated (Type X), stronger | Heavier (harder to handle), more expensive, requires stronger studs |
| 3/4" (19mm) | 2.8 lbs/SF (90 lbs per 4×8) |
Extreme sound insulation, commercial applications, specialty projects | Maximum sound and fire resistance | Very heavy, expensive, special order, difficult installation |
| Type | Identifying Color | Thickness Options | Applications | Key Features |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Standard (Regular) | White/Ivory paper | 1/4", 3/8", 1/2", 5/8" | Interior walls and ceilings (dry areas only) | Most economical, widely available, not moisture or fire resistant |
| Moisture-Resistant (MR) | Green paper (greenboard) | 1/2", 5/8" | Bathrooms, laundry rooms, basements (not direct water contact) | Water-resistant paper facing, mold-resistant core, not waterproof |
| Mold-Resistant (Paperless) | Purple or blue (Purpleboard™) | 1/2", 5/8" | High-humidity areas, bathrooms, basements, kitchens | Fiberglass facing (no paper = no mold food), superior moisture resistance |
| Fire-Rated Type X | Pink/red paper or marked "Type X" | 1/2" (1-hour), 5/8" (2-hour) | Garages, furnace rooms, attached garage walls, fire separation walls | Glass fibers in core (slows fire), 1-2 hour fire rating, building code requirement |
| Type C (Enhanced Fire) | Marked "Type C" | 1/2" (2-hour), 5/8" (3-4 hour) | Commercial buildings, high-rise construction, superior fire protection | More fire-resistant than Type X, vermiculite and glass fibers, expensive |
| Soundproof/Acoustic | Blue or marked "STC" | 1/2", 5/8" | Home theaters, bedrooms, apartments, music rooms, offices | Denser gypsum core, viscoelastic polymers, STC 45-55 rating, expensive |
| Impact-Resistant | Yellow paper (varies) | 1/2", 5/8" | Hallways, schools, garages, high-traffic areas, commercial | Reinforced core, resists dents/punctures, 2-4× stronger than standard |
| Abuse-Resistant (AR Board) | Blue/gray paper | 1/2", 5/8" | Schools, hospitals, commercial buildings, high-abuse areas | Extremely dense, fiberglass-reinforced, resists damage, very expensive |
| Flexible/Bendable | White (marked "flexible") | 1/4", 1/2" | Curved walls, arches, round columns, decorative features | Bends to 10-20 ft radius dry, tighter radius when wet, special order |
| Foil-Backed | Aluminum foil on back | 1/2", 5/8" | Exterior walls (insulation), vapor barrier, cold climate construction | Vapor barrier (prevents moisture), reflects heat, acts as insulation |
| Lead-Lined | Standard appearance (lead inside) | 1/2"-5/8" + lead layer | Medical facilities (X-ray rooms), dental offices, radiation shielding | Blocks radiation, very heavy (100+ lbs per 4×8), expensive, special order |
Dimensions: 4 feet × 8 feet (48" × 96"). Coverage: 32 square feet per sheet. Weight (1/2"): 54-57 lbs. Advantages: Most economical (widest availability), easiest to transport (fits in pickup truck or SUV), manageable size for DIY installers, fits through standard doorways (36"), available everywhere (big box stores, lumberyards). Best for: 8-foot walls (standard residential ceiling height), small rooms, DIY projects, residential construction, repair/remodeling. Limitations: More seams (more taping and mudding), not ideal for walls over 8 feet, requires horizontal seam for tall walls.
Dimensions: 4×10 (48" × 120") = 40 SF. 4×12 (48" × 144") = 48 SF. Weight (1/2"): 4×10: 71 lbs. 4×12: 86 lbs (heavy, requires two people). Advantages: Fewer seams (less taping, faster finishing), stronger (fewer joints = stronger wall), better appearance (fewer visible seams), professional look, ideal for 9-12 foot ceilings. Disadvantages: Heavier (difficult for DIY), requires longer delivery truck, won't fit standard vehicles, professional installation recommended (drywall lift required). Best for: 9-12 foot ceilings, commercial buildings, new construction (designed for drywall lift), professional crews.
Ceilings: Use 4×12 sheets perpendicular to joists (reduces number of seams). Hang ceilings first, then walls (walls support ceiling edges). Minimum 5/8" thickness for ceilings (16" OC joists); 1/2" acceptable for 12" OC joists. Walls: 1/2" thickness standard for most residential walls. Install vertically for walls under 8 feet, horizontally for walls over 8 feet (reduces linear feet of seams). Installation order: 1. Ceiling first. 2. Upper wall sheet. 3. Lower wall sheet (floats above floor 1/2").
Weight: 1.6-1.8 lbs per square foot (54-57 lbs per 4×8 sheet). Applications: Standard interior walls, residential construction (most common), walls with 16" OC studs, non-load-bearing partitions. Advantages: Most economical option, widely available, adequate strength for typical walls, lightweight (easier DIY installation). Code compliance: Meets building code for interior walls in most jurisdictions. Not recommended for: Ceilings (may sag over time), high-impact areas, commercial buildings (often require 5/8").
Weight: 2.0-2.3 lbs per square foot (70-74 lbs per 4×8 sheet). Applications: All ceilings (recommended), commercial buildings, fire-rated walls (Type X 5/8" = 2-hour rating), soundproofing projects, 24" OC framing. Advantages: Sag-resistant (doesn't sag on ceilings over time), stronger and more rigid, better sound insulation (STC 35 vs STC 33 for 1/2"), available in Type X fire-rated, spans wider joist spacing. Disadvantages: 25-30% heavier than 1/2" (harder to install, requires help), 15-25% more expensive, requires more muscular effort (overhead ceiling installation challenging). Building code: Required for garage walls (fire separation), often required for commercial buildings.
1/4" thickness: Flexible enough to bend for curves (15-20 foot radius dry, tighter when wet). Used for curved walls, arches, barrel ceilings, double-layering over existing walls. Weight: 38 lbs per 4×8 sheet. 3/8" thickness: Covering old plaster walls (avoids demolition), double-layer soundproofing, repair over damaged drywall. Uncommon (not stocked everywhere). Installation note: 1/4" and 3/8" require close stud/joist spacing (12" OC or closer) or backing layer for adequate support.
Doors: Standard door (36" × 80" = 20 SF). Double door (72" × 80" = 40 SF). Windows: Varies widely—measure actual size. Small window: 6-10 SF. Large window: 15-25 SF. Should you subtract? Professional installers typically DON'T subtract for doors/windows under 50 SF (accounts for waste, odd cuts). For large openings (patio doors, picture windows over 40 SF), subtract from total. Waste factor: Add 10-15% for waste, odd cuts, repairs. More complex rooms (many corners, angles) = higher waste factor.
Small room (10×10, 8 ft ceiling): Walls: 320 SF. Ceiling: 100 SF. Total: 420 SF = 14 sheets (4×8) with waste. Master bedroom (15×15, 8 ft ceiling): Walls: 480 SF. Ceiling: 225 SF. Total: 705 SF = 23 sheets with waste. Living room (20×15, 8 ft ceiling): Walls: 560 SF. Ceiling: 300 SF. Total: 860 SF = 28 sheets with waste. Garage (20×20, 9 ft ceiling): Walls: 720 SF. Ceiling: 400 SF. Total: 1,120 SF = 36 sheets with waste (use 5/8" Type X for walls).
16" on-center (OC): Standard residential framing. 1/2" drywall adequate for walls. 5/8" recommended for ceilings. 24" on-center: Longer spans between supports. 5/8" thickness required for walls and ceilings. 1/2" will sag on ceilings with 24" OC joists. 12" on-center: Extra support (uncommon). 1/2" adequate for ceilings. Used in high-wind areas or when required by code.
Walls under 8 feet: Hang vertically (perpendicular to studs). Seams fall on studs, one continuous sheet floor to ceiling, no horizontal seams (easier finishing). Walls 8-9 feet: Hang horizontally (parallel to floor). Reduces linear feet of seams, stronger (seams at 4 feet—strongest position), industry standard for production builders. Ceilings: Always hang perpendicular to joists. Reduces number of seams, provides strongest installation. Fire-rated walls: Follow manufacturer specifications (orientation may be specified for fire rating).
Screw spacing (walls): 16" apart on studs in field, 8" apart on edges (perimeter of sheet). Screw spacing (ceilings): 12" apart on joists in field, 8" apart on edges. Screw type: #6 coarse thread for wood studs (1 1/4" length for 1/2", 1 5/8" for 5/8"). Fine thread for metal studs. Screw depth: Dimple paper surface slightly (1/16" below surface), don't break paper (weakens hold). Adhesive: Construction adhesive on studs (reduces screw count, minimizes nail pops, stronger attachment). Apply 1/4" bead, use screws at perimeter only.
Straight cuts: Score face paper with utility knife, snap along score, cut back paper. Outlets and boxes: Measure and mark, use drywall saw or rotary tool (RotoZip). Circles (recessed lights): Use hole saw or adjustable circle cutter. Notches: Combination of straight cuts and drywall saw. Safety: Wear dust mask (gypsum dust irritates lungs), safety glasses, cut away from body. Pro tip: Cut drywall 1/2" shorter than floor-to-ceiling (leaves gap at bottom for floor expansion, covered by baseboard).
All-purpose compound: 1 gallon per 100 SF (covers taping and two coats). Lightweight compound: Easier sanding, same coverage as all-purpose. Setting-type (hot mud): Faster drying (45-90 minutes), used for first coat or repairs, doesn't shrink. Total compound needed: Three coats standard (tape coat, second coat, finish coat). Average 400 SF room = 4-5 gallons compound. Sanding: 120-grit sandpaper or sanding screen, wear dust mask, wet-sand to minimize dust.
Paper tape: Traditional choice, stronger than mesh (better for flat seams), requires bed of compound underneath, crease for inside corners. Fiberglass mesh tape: Self-adhesive (faster application), used with setting-type compound, weaker than paper (not recommended for flat seams), best for repairs and patches. Amount needed: Measure all seams (walls + ceiling) + inside corners. Add 10% waste. Typical 12×15 room = 150-200 linear feet tape.
Level 0: No taping or finishing (temporary walls). Level 1: Tape embedded in compound (no other finishing), used behind cabinets or in attics. Level 2: Tape coat + thin skim coat, adequate for tile backing or texture. Level 3: Tape coat + two coats compound, adequate for heavy texture application. Level 4: Tape coat + three coats compound, standard for smooth walls with light texture or paint. Level 5: Level 4 + skim coat over entire surface, required for flat paint or critical lighting (creates perfectly smooth surface).
Identification: Green paper facing. Core: Standard gypsum with water-resistant paper. Applications: Bathrooms (walls only, not shower surround), laundry rooms, basements, utility rooms. Important limitations: NOT waterproof—cannot be used in direct contact with water (no shower walls, no tile backer in wet areas). Use cement board or purple board for wet areas instead. Cost: 10-20% more than standard drywall. Installation: Same as standard drywall (no special techniques).
Identification: Purple paper (National Gypsum) or blue (other manufacturers). Core: Mold-resistant gypsum. Facing: Fiberglass mat (no paper = no food for mold). Applications: Shower walls (with waterproofing membrane), bathroom ceilings, basements, high-humidity areas, behind tile. Advantages: Superior moisture and mold resistance (better than green board), can be used as tile backer (with proper waterproofing), mold doesn't grow on fiberglass facing. Cost: 20-30% more than standard drywall. Installation: Heavier than standard (fiberglass facing adds weight), requires special screws (cuts fiberglass without fraying).
Type X (Standard Fire-Rated): Glass fibers in core slow fire spread. 1/2" Type X = 1-hour fire rating. 5/8" Type X = 2-hour fire rating. Type C (Enhanced Fire-Rated): More glass fibers and vermiculite. 1/2" Type C = 2-hour rating. 5/8" Type C = 3-4 hour rating. Building code requirements: Attached garage walls (fire separation from house), furnace rooms, townhouse party walls (shared walls), commercial buildings (fire separation per code). Cost: Type X: 10-15% more than standard. Type C: 50-100% more than standard. Installation: Same as standard drywall, must cover specified wall area for fire rating to be valid.
Construction: Denser gypsum core with viscoelastic polymers. Performance: STC 45-55 (Sound Transmission Class rating), compared to STC 33 for standard 1/2" drywall. Weight: 2.5-3 lbs per SF (much heavier than standard). Applications: Home theaters, master bedrooms, apartments, music rooms, offices adjacent to noisy areas. Cost: $40-$70 per 4×8 sheet (3-5× more expensive than standard drywall). Installation: Very heavy (requires two people minimum), use acoustic caulk at perimeter (seals gaps for sound), combine with insulation (fiberglass or mineral wool in stud cavities). Brand examples: QuietRock, SoundBreak XP.
Standard 1/2" (4×8): $10-$15 per sheet. Standard 5/8" (4×8): $12-$18 per sheet. Standard 1/2" (4×12): $20-$28 per sheet. Moisture-resistant (green board, 4×8): $13-$20 per sheet. Mold-resistant (purple board, 4×8): $15-$25 per sheet. Type X fire-rated (5/8", 4×8): $14-$22 per sheet. Soundproof (4×8): $40-$70 per sheet. Impact-resistant (4×8): $18-$30 per sheet. Regional variation: Prices 20-30% higher in high-cost areas (Northeast, West Coast).
Hanging only: $1.50-$3.00 per SF (includes fastening sheets to framing). Taping and finishing: $2.00-$4.00 per SF (includes tape, mud, sanding). Complete installation: $3.50-$7.00 per SF (hanging + taping + finishing). Total project cost: $5.00-$10.00 per SF (materials + labor for standard drywall). Add-ons: Texture application: $0.50-$1.50 per SF. Removal of old drywall: $1.00-$2.00 per SF. Insulation: $0.50-$1.50 per SF. Repair work: $100-$200 per hole/damaged area. Minimum charges: Most contractors charge $500-$1,000 minimum for small jobs (single room).
DIY pros: Save 60-70% on labor costs ($3-$7 per SF saved), learn valuable skill, complete control over schedule. DIY cons: Time-intensive (10-20 hours per room for beginners), physically demanding (heavy lifting, overhead work), finishing quality (taping/mudding has steep learning curve), requires tools (drywall lift, screw gun, taping knives). Professional pros: Fast completion (room finished in 1-3 days), perfect finish (experienced mudding/taping), insured and warrantied, no tool purchase needed. When to hire pro: Ceilings (difficult overhead work), large projects (multiple rooms), specialty applications (soundproofing, fire-rated), smooth Level 5 finish required.
Mistake: Installing 1/2" drywall on ceiling with 16" OC joists. Problem: Sagging over time, visible waves between joists, cracked seams. Solution: Use 5/8" for ceilings unless joists are 12" OC. Mistake: Using 1/4" drywall on walls without backing. Problem: Flexes, dents easily, cracks develop. Solution: Use 1/2" minimum for walls, 1/4" only for curved applications or double-layering.
Mistake: Subtracting every door/window from square footage. Problem: Under-ordering materials (cuts around openings create waste). Solution: Only subtract openings over 40 SF. Include 10-15% waste factor for all projects.
Mistake: Driving screws too deep (breaking paper face). Problem: Screws lose holding power (paper provides holding strength), future nail pops, cracking around screws. Solution: Dimple surface 1/16" (paper intact but recessed for mudding). Use drywall screw gun with depth adjustment.
Mistake: Forcing sheets together with no gap at seams. Problem: Drywall expands slightly from humidity—tight seams create bulges, cracks form along seams. Solution: Leave 1/8" gap between sheets (fills with compound during taping).
Answer: For standard 8-foot walls, use 4×8 sheets with 1/2" thickness. For 9-10 foot walls, use 4×10 or 4×12 sheets to minimize horizontal seams. Always use 5/8" thickness for ceilings to prevent sagging. For fire-rated walls (garage), use 5/8" Type X drywall.
Answer: Calculate total square footage (walls + ceiling), divide by 32 (for 4×8 sheets) or 48 (for 4×12 sheets), add 10-15% for waste. Example: 600 SF ÷ 32 SF per sheet = 18.75 sheets. Add 10%: 18.75 × 1.10 = 21 sheets (round up).
Answer: For walls under 8 feet, hang vertically (perpendicular to studs)—eliminates horizontal seams. For walls over 8 feet, hang horizontally—reduces total linear feet of seams and creates stronger wall. For ceilings, always hang perpendicular to joists.
Yes, if: Old drywall is in good condition (no major damage, mold, or water damage), wall is flat and structurally sound, adding 1/4" or 3/8" thickness acceptable (affects door jambs, electrical boxes). Benefits: Avoids demolition mess, adds sound insulation, faster project. Drawbacks: Adds weight to walls, reduces room size slightly, electrical boxes need extenders.
Green board: Water-resistant paper facing on standard gypsum core. For moisture-prone areas but NOT direct water contact. Cannot be used as tile backer in showers. Purple board: Fiberglass mat facing (no paper) on mold-resistant core. Superior moisture and mold resistance. Can be used as tile backer with proper waterproofing membrane. More expensive but better performance.
Yes: Building codes require 5/8" Type X fire-rated drywall on walls and ceiling between attached garage and house. Provides 2-hour fire rating (fire separation). Regular drywall does not meet code for garage-to-house walls. Some jurisdictions also require fire-rated drywall on garage ceiling if habitable space above.