Pool Table Sizes: Dimensions, Room Requirements & Comparison Chart

The 7-foot table has a 78×39″ playing surface and needs a room at least 16×12′8″ (with a 48″ short cue) or 17′8″×13′8″ for comfortable play with a standard 58″ cue. At 600–700 lbs, it’s the lightest slate option and manageable for second-floor installation.

These are ideal for basement game rooms under 14×16 feet, apartments, families with casual interest, and budget-conscious setups. The downside: they’re not regulation size. Balls reach pockets faster, reducing strategic depth. Serious players consider them too small for meaningful practice.

Bottom line: If your room is under 14×17 ft, a 7-foot is better than no table. If you have more space, the 8-foot is a noticeably better playing experience.

Playing surface: 100×50″. Minimum room: 17′10″×14′. Comfortable room: 20′2″×15′8″. This is the official tournament and regulation size — slower gameplay, more strategic, and the exact dimensions used in competitive play.

At 1,000–1,300 lbs, structural concerns become real. The table is an impressive centerpiece, but the room requirements are often underestimated. A table that technically “fits” with 4.5 ft clearance will frustrate you on every wall shot.

Bottom line: Only choose this if you have 18×16 ft or more and you play seriously. For casual players, a 9-foot is intimidating and impractical. Better to have a comfortable 8-foot than a cramped 9-foot.

Length needed: Overall table length + (2 × cue length) + (2 × 12″ stance)

Width needed: Overall table width + (2 × cue length) + (2 × 12″ stance)

Example for an 8-foot with 58″ cues: Length = 98″ + 116″ + 24″ = 238″ = 19′10″. Width = 54″ + 116″ + 24″ = 194″ = 16′2″. Round up to 20×16 ft for safety.

Real-world adjustments: You can use a 48″ short cue against one or two walls to save ~10″ per wall. Columns, furniture, and door swings eat into usable space — add 6–12″ buffer around any obstruction. Ceilings below 7′6″ interfere with overhead bridge shots.

Before ordering, measure every doorway, hallway, stairwell, and turn between entry and the room. Standard doorways are 32–36″ wide, and overall table width is 49–60″ — the table body won’t fit through whole. Three-piece slate tables solve this: each slate section is roughly 30×40″ and can navigate standard access points.

One-piece slate requires at least 6 ft of clear width — rarely feasible for upstairs rooms. Professional installation ($300–$800) is non-negotiable for slate tables. DIY risks include cracked slate ($800–$2,000 to replace), uneven play surface, and personal injury from lifting 300–800 lbs.

Floor requirements: Concrete (basement) is ideal. Hardwood or tile are good. Carpet works if you place hardboard under the legs. The floor should be level within ½″ across the table footprint — installers use shims for minor variance.

Slate (natural stone, ¾″–1″ thick) is the industry standard. It stays perfectly flat, provides a smooth ball roll, lasts a lifetime, and holds resale value. The downsides are weight (300–800 lbs of slate alone) and cost. One-piece or three-piece configurations are available — when properly installed, three-piece plays identically to one-piece.

MDF / particle board is found in budget tables. It warps within 2–5 years, creates uneven ball roll, and has zero resale value. They’re lighter (100–200 lbs total) and cheaper, but the savings evaporate when the surface becomes unplayable.

Slatron is a compressed synthetic material between slate and MDF. Better than MDF, but not as good as slate. Acceptable for strictly casual players on a tight budget.

Recommendation: Only slate. If budget is limited, a used slate table always beats a new MDF table.

Cushions are made from natural gum rubber (tournament standard, longest life), synthetic rubber (mid-range, 10–15 year lifespan), or cheap rubber (budget tables, hardens in 3–5 years). The standard profile is K-55 (established 1955) or K-66 (higher nose, more rebound).

Quality cushions give a firm, consistent rebound with no dead spots. They harden over time — expect 15–25 years before replacement is needed ($300–$800 for the job).

Worsted wool (Simonis, Championship Tour) is tightly woven with a smooth, fast surface. It’s 20–30% faster than woolen cloth, more durable, and costs $200–$400. This is tournament standard.

Woolen cloth has a napped (slightly fuzzy) finish that plays slower. It costs $100–$200 and is the most common on home tables. Perfectly fine for recreational play.

Residential cloth lasts 10–20 years; commercial, 1–3 years. Re-felting costs $300–$600 for materials and labor. Traditional green is most popular, but tournament blue, burgundy, tan, and black are all available.

Wood frames expand and contract with humidity, causing cloth wrinkles and rail misalignment. Moisture absorption changes cloth speed. The ideal environment is 40–60% relative humidity, 60–75°F, climate-controlled year-round.

Avoid unheated garages, damp basements without a dehumidifier, and seasonally used rooms. Solutions are straightforward: a dehumidifier for damp basements, a humidifier for dry climates, or central HVAC for stable conditions.

Used slate tables can be excellent value — they retain quality indefinitely. Check the slate for cracks by lifting a corner of the felt. Test cushion rebound (should be firm and consistent). Roll balls slowly to check for drift (indicates an unlevel surface). Examine cloth for worn areas and tears, and verify all parts are present.

“Free” tables requiring moving can be the best deals, but always inspect the slate condition first. Cracked slate is unrepairable and worthless. Budget $300–$800 for professional disassembly, transport, and reinstallation.

Re-felting: $300–$600 every 10–20 years (residential use). Cushion replacement: $300–$800 every 15–25 years. Optional annual leveling check: $100–$200.

Accessories you’ll want: Cue sticks ($30–$300 each), ball set ($30–$200), triangle rack ($10–$50), wall-mount cue rack ($30–$150), table cover ($50–$200), chalk ($5–$20), and a cloth brush ($10–$30).

The most common mistake is cramming a 9-foot table into an 18×15 ft room. Technically it “fits,” but you’ll constantly switch to short cues, can’t take full shots near walls, and bank shots become guesswork. If your room is borderline, always choose the next size down. A comfortable 8-foot beats a cramped 9-foot every time.

Overall table width is 49–60″ — wider than standard 32–36″ doorways. Three-piece slate solves this (individual sections are ~30×40″), but one-piece slate needs 6+ ft of clearance. Measure every doorway, hallway, stairwell, and turn before ordering.

MDF warps within 2–5 years. Once the surface is uneven, balls drift and play quality tanks. There’s no fix and no resale value. Slate lasts 50–100+ years. If your budget is tight, a used slate table is always the better choice over a new MDF table.

Professional installation costs $300–$800 — a small fraction of a $2,000–$10,000 table. DIY risks include cracked slate (unrepairable, $800–$2,000 replacement), improperly leveled surface, badly stretched cloth, and serious back injury from lifting hundreds of pounds. The installer brings specialized tools, leveling equipment, and insurance.

Minimum 16′10″×13′2″ with 48″ short cues. Recommended 18′6″×14′2″ with standard 58″ cues. Comfortable 19′2″×14′10″ including spectator walkways. The formula: table overall length + (2 × cue length) + (2 × 12″ stance).

Yes, in most cases. Standard residential floors support 40–50 lbs/sq ft; pool tables exert 15–25 lbs/sq ft (well within limits). Use a three-piece slate table so it fits through doorways and up stairs. Pre-1950 homes may need a structural engineer to verify floor joists. Hire an installer experienced with upper-floor setups.

One-piece: A single slab (400–800 lbs), perfectly flat with no seams, but very difficult to move and risks cracking. Best for ground-floor permanent installations. Three-piece: Three sections (200–300 lbs each) joined with beeswax and precision-leveled. Fits through standard doorways and stairs. Properly installed, it plays identically to one-piece. This is the best choice for most residential installs.

Slate tables: 50–100+ years. The slate itself doesn’t wear out, and the wood framework lasts decades. You’ll replace the cloth every 10–20 years ($300–$600) and cushions every 15–25 years ($300–$800). MDF tables: 3–10 years before warping makes them unplayable. They’re not worth repairing.

For casual and family play, a 7-foot is perfectly fine — less intimidating for beginners, cheaper, and easier to fit. For serious or competitive players, it’s too small: the reduced surface means less strategy, and it’s poor practice for tournament play on 9-foot tables. If your room allows 14×17 ft or more, the 8-foot is worth the upgrade.